Waves

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 Movement of Ocean Water

  • Horizontal motion refers to the ocean currents and waves.
  • Vertical motion refers to tides.
Waves
  • Water particles only travel in a small circle as a wave passes - waves is circular.
  • Wind causes waves to travel in the ocean and the energy is released on shorelines.
  • Depth of water is less than half the wavelength of the wave, the wave breaks.
  • Waves may travel thousands of km before rolling ashore, breaking and dissolving as surf.
  • Steep waves are fairly young ones and are probably formed by local wind.
  • Slow and Steady waves originate from faraway places, possibly from another hemisphere.
  • Maximum wave height is determined by the strength of the wind.
  • Waves travel because wind pushes the water body in its course while gravity pulls the crests of the waves downward. The falling water pushes the former troughs upward. wave moves to a new position.
Characteristics of Waves
  • Wave crest and trough: The highest and lowest points of a wave are called the crest and trough respectively.
  • Wave height: It is the vertical distance from the bottom of a trough to the top of a crest of a wave.
  • Wave amplitude: It is one-half of the wave height.
  • Wave period: It is merely the time interval between two successive wave crests or troughs as they pass a fixed point.
  • Wavelength: It is the horizontal distance between two successive crests.
  • Wave speed: It is the rate at which the wave moves through the water, and is measured in knots.
  • Wave frequency: It is the number of waves passing a given point during a one second time interval.

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